Hydrate, Brighten, Replenish
PHOTOS BY JORDAN RANDALL | IN COLLABORATION WITH KATE RYALS, PHYSICIAN ASSISTANT
AT WINTER HAVEN DERMATOLOGY
Skin care can be confusing and complicated with all of the products and information out there. Maybe you find yourself paralyzed in the skin care aisle at the drugstore, wondering if you really need to spend hundreds of dollars on medical grade creams and serums, or if you need to spend a lot of time every evening on an extensive regimen. Taking care of your skin can be done simply and relatively inexpensive if you know what products to use for your skin type and stage of life. After practicing dermatology for 23 years, here are some things I have learned that can help people of all ages and skin types keep their skin healthy and looking its best.
The Basics
What everyone should be doing
Cleanse in the a.m. and p.m. using a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser suited for your skin type (dry, oily, combination, sensitive).
Toner in the a.m. and p.m. (optional): If you have oily skin, an alcohol-free toner can help balance oil production and minimize pore size. It can also help balance the pH of the skin, making it more likely to absorb other products.
Exfoliate in the p.m. (1-2 times per week):Use a gentle chemical exfoliant with glycolic acid or lactic acid to remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
Moisturize in the a.m. and p.m.: Consider a lightweight moisturizer in the a.m., heavier at night.
Apply sunscreen in the a.m.: Use a broad spectrum product with at least a 30 SPF to prevent damage from UV exposure and prevent premature aging and discoloration. Consider blocks that include zinc or titanium oxide.
What type of skin do you have?
Figuring out your skin type is essential for picking the right products. Here is an easy way to determine your skin type.
Cleanse your face and pat dry and allow your skin to rest for about an hour without applying any products. Then determine which of the five categories are the most true for your skin based on your observations.
Normal: balanced, not too oily or dry, no enlarged pores, few blemishes. Feels comfortable without excessive tightness or excessive shine.
Oily: shiny appearance especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), enlarged pores, frequent blackheads and breakouts. Feels greasy or oily to the touch.
Dry: flaky, rough or tight, fine lines, redness, smaller or less visible pores. Feels tight or uncomfortable after cleansing.
Combination: a mix of oily (especially the T-zone) but dry on the cheeks. Feels oily in some areas and dry in others.
Sensitive: prone to redness, irritation, burning. Feels tight and uncomfortable and may react negatively to some skin care products.
What to avoid
There are some things everyone needs to avoid no matter their skin type or age, especially UV light damage. Even on cloudy or overcast days UV light can cause damage to your skin which can cause premature aging, discoloration and skin cancer. A lot of sun damage occurs before the age of 20, which is why it is so important to protect even children and teenagers which can be difficult when you don’t see the damage immediately. Also, darker-skinned individuals and people of color will develop discoloration and premature aging without sun protection.
Other things to avoid are: abrasive cleansers, loofah sponges on your face, at-home chemical peels, at-home micro needles, astringents that tingle or burn, and propylene glycol, sulfates, or formaldehyde for those with sensitive skin.
Age 12 to late 20s
Women
Serum: Apply a vitamin C serum in the a.m. to brighten and provide antioxidant protection
Treatment: If you experience breakouts, apply a targeted treatment with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid in the p.m.
Eye cream: If you have concerns about puffiness or dark circles, consider an eye cream with caffeine or hyaluronic acid.
Men
Treatment: If you experience breakouts, consider applying a targeted treatment with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to blemishes.
Eye cream: If you have concerns about puffiness or dark circles, consider an eye cream that includes caffeine or hyaluronic acid.
Age 30 to late 40s
Women
Serum: Apply a vitamin C serum to brighten skin and protect from oxidative damage. The niacinamide, also know as vitamin B3, can decrease oil production in oily skin or help with inflammation and reduce pore size. These can be applied in the a.m.
Treatment: Adding a retinol or retinoid can improve skin turnover and fine lines in the p.m. Many retinols are over-the-counter (OTC) products. I recommend starting with these, then moving to stronger prescription (RX) products as your skin adjusts.
Moisturizer: A richer, more hydrating moisturizer in the p.m. can help diminish fine lines and improve the elasticity. Consider products with hyaluronic acid, glycerin or ceramides.
Men
Serum: A vitamin C serum in the a.m. can help brighten and protect against environmental damage. It can also aid in collagen production.
Treatment: Adding a retinol or retinoid in the p.m. can improve skin turnover and fine lines. Many retinols are OTC products and retinoids are RX. I recommend starting with an OTC option and progressing to an RX as your skin adjusts.
Eye cream: If you have concerns about puffiness or dark circles, consider an eye cream with caffeine or hyaluronic acid.
Age 50+
Women
Do all of the above for the previous age bracket plus:
Repair and Replenish: Strongly consider thicker moisturizers as the skin loses its ability to retain moisture. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, colloidal oatmeal, niacinamide and peptides are all good ingredients. Remember that as estrogen declines your skin can be affected, so discussing hormone replacement with your specialist may be helpful as well.
Men
All of the above noted for women, except, of course, the hormone replacement.
A final word
It is important to also consider lifestyle factors when addressing skin health. Hydration is key, exercise promotes circulation and sweating can eliminate toxins from the skin. Limiting alcohol and smoking will improve your skin appearance, as will eating a healthy varied diet including bright colored fruits and vegetables, antioxidant rich foods (berries) and omega 3 fatty acid rich foods (fish). Limiting inflammatory foods like sugar, processed foods, dairy, and gluten can be helpful as well.
In summary, putting some time and effort into skin care does not have to be complicated or expensive. Knowing what products to look for and what to avoid is key. However, not all skin is created equal and sometimes trial and error is required to find the right fix. A dermatologist can help with stubborn problems and factors that may need the help of a prescription. They can also provide samples and suggestions for your specific concerns.